Kinoka → Mine Topia Besshi: Tōnaru “Sky Ruins” & Onsen

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From Kinoka to Besshi | Walking the “Sky Ruins” at Tōnaru, then bath & sweets at Mine Topia Besshi (Nov 3 · Cloudy)

November 3, cloudy. First, a restroom break and short stroll at Roadside Station “Kinoka”. The mountains were just starting to show fall colors. Then we drove to Mine Topia Besshi for lunch and continued by car to the Tōnaru Zone. On the way back, we soaked at Mine Topia Besshi and wrapped up with the signature dessert at cafe HADEBA.

Kinoka exterior
Kinoka exterior
Mountains and river near Kinoka
Surrounding ridgelines (colors just starting)
Clean air and water near Kinoka
Crisp air, soothing sound of water

Kinoka

Husband
Husband
You can see a hint of color. The mountain air is chilly and refreshing.

Wife
Wife
Quick break and let’s head to Besshi. We’ve got a full plan today.

Map | Roadside Station “Kinoka”

While you’re here, “reset the car” too — 4 small upgrades that make road trips easier

Four in-car items that tidy things up fast

1) Roll-type car trash bags (40 pcs)

  • Space-saving roll design that installs anywhere and dispenses easily.
  • Disposable and hygienic; works for front or rear seats.

Roll trash bags for car (Rakuten product card)

車載ゴミ袋 ビニール袋 ロール式 40枚入り … Price at listing time shown on Rakuten (may change).

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2) Hanging PU-leather car trash bin

  • Clean look with lid to hide contents and odors.
  • Hangs on seat back for space saving; waterproof lining handles damp items.

PU leather hanging car trash bin (Rakuten product card)

車ゴミ箱 車載ごみ箱 収納ボックス PUレザー … Price at listing time shown on Rakuten (may change).

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3) 22,000 mAh power bank

  • Enough juice to charge the family’s phones, with battery level indicator for easy management.
  • Eliminates battery anxiety when shooting photos/video and using maps.

High-capacity power bank (Rakuten product card)

【総合ランキング1位】… モバイルバッテリー 22000mAh Price at listing time shown on Rakuten (may change).

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4) Auto-hold car phone mount

  • Automatic clamp for one-hand attach/detach — smooth for navigation.
  • Choose suction or vent mount; easy to place for clear visibility.

Auto-hold car phone mount (Rakuten product card)

【楽天1位】スマホホルダー 車載ホルダー … Price at listing time shown on Rakuten (may change).

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* Prices/stock/specs change. Check the latest details on the product page before purchase.

Lunch at Mine Topia Besshi

We had oyakodon topped with chicken tempura & hot-spring egg, a seasonal veggie curry, and a pork cutlet bowl inside the facility.

Mine Topia Besshi main building
Mine Topia Besshi — main building
Sample of the lunch menu
Hearty portions; warm soup hits the spot

Lunch

Husband
Husband
That hot-spring egg on the oyakodon is perfect. Exactly what I want on a chilly day.

Wife
Wife
The veggie curry and the pork cutlet bowl both hit the spot. Okay, to Tōnaru!

Map | Mine Topia Besshi

Tōnaru Zone | 220 steps to the “Sky Ruins”

High elevation means it’s quite cold — bring warm layers. The parking lot is spacious and was lively with visitors. Past a point, the mountain road narrows to about one-car width, so drive carefully. If you’re not confident on mountain roads, consider the guided microbus (about ¥2,200 per person).

Tōnaru parking area
Tōnaru parking — wide and easy to park
Remains of a storage building (brick walls)
Brick walls of a former storage site
Stairs to the incline ruins (total 220 steps)
Stairs leading to incline ruins (220 steps total)
Moss-covered structures
Moss-covered structures etched with time
Ruins at Tōnaru
Steel, brick, and stillness that lingers
A Laputa-like garden scene
A scene reminiscent of a “Laputa-like garden”

Tōnaru

Husband
Husband
Feels like the “robot garden in the sky” — moss, brick, and the way the wind moves. Straight out of a film.

Wife
Wife
You can sense the bustle it once had, and the quiet of now — it’s nostalgic in a way that squeezes your chest.

Husband
Husband
Those 220 steps really work the legs, but up top, it’s like the past hums in your ears. You can see the layers of time.

Wife
Wife
Even the rusted beams look beautiful. Cold, but totally worth it. Glad we brought warm gear!

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Watch for cold & slick steps at Tōnaru. — Plan ahead for warmth, footing, and camera shake

It feels colder at altitude, and there are 220 steps. If you’ll be shooting photos/videos, the trio of a thin heat-retaining liner glove + grippy waterproof shoes + smartphone gimbal is a smart setup.

Heat-retaining liner gloves (Otafuku Glove)

  • Pros: Thin for layering; keeps fingertips warm; easy for driving and camera ops.
  • Cons: Limited windproofing by itself — add a shell glove in strong wind/cold.
  • Best for: Sightseeing that needs fine hand work (shooting, ticket handling, etc.).

Otafuku heat-retaining liner gloves (Rakuten product card)

おたふく手袋 蓄熱 インナー手袋 H4V Approx. price: around ¥400 (shipping varies by shop)

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Anti-slip waterproof sneakers (Arrowmax #112)

  • Pros: Waterproof build (approx. 4 cm) and grippy sole inspire confidence on wet steps; light for long walks.
  • Cons: Waterproofing can trap heat; check sizing if pairing with thick socks.
  • Best for: Long stair climbs or unpaved paths; rainy forecasts.

Arrowmax #112 anti-slip waterproof sneakers (Rakuten product card)

Arrowmax #112(耐滑・防水スニーカー安全靴) Approx. price: around ¥3,900 (shipping varies by shop)

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Single-axis smartphone gimbal (with LED)

  • Pros: Tames horizontal sway in walking shots; doubles as a selfie stick; LED helps brighten faces.
  • Cons: As a single-axis unit, it won’t remove vertical bounce or heavy lateral shake; some units are a bit heavy.
  • Best for: Vlogging on stairs, group shots, and dusky evening scenes.

Single-axis smartphone gimbal with LED (Rakuten product card)

単軸スマホジンバル(LEDライト付・リモコン付属) Approx. price: around ¥5,980 (often free shipping)

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* Check product pages for the latest price/stock/specs. * Links include affiliate codes (rel="nofollow sponsored noopener").

Map | Tōnaru (“Machu Picchu of the East”)

Besshi Onsen “Sora-no-Yu” — time to unwind

There are multiple tubs, including a carbonated bath. The outdoor cool-down area had about 8 reclining loungers (all taken when we visited). It was a bit crowded, but we left feeling great.

Post-bath treat | cafe HADEBA “Soft-serve on Besshi Baum”

cafe HADEBA: Soft-serve on Besshi Baum
cafe HADEBA “Soft-serve on Besshi Baum”

Classic combo of vanilla soft-serve + baumkuchen. The soft-serve is gently sweet, the baum’s moist layers add depth bite by bite, and the bittersweet chocolate sauce keeps it interesting to the last spoonful. Menu price shown as ¥650.

* Based on on-site menu/photo. Confirm the latest offering and prices on site.

Dialogue: Dessert

Husband
Husband
Sweet treats after a bath just hit different… those baum layers melt in the mouth.

Wife
Wife
Fully satisfied. Walked, soaked, and ended on a sweet note — perfect.

Note: cafe HADEBA is on the 1F of the main Mine Topia Besshi building. Check the official site for hours and current menus.

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